Author – Karpdisain

Author

First contacts with jewellery

I was born in the beginning of January 1972 and grew up in Tallinn. I was exposed to precious metals as early as my childhood. My mother and grandmother worked in the Tallinn Jewellery Factory, which was located at Pärnu mnt. 20. As a child, I was often smuggled through the factory gate, where I watched with excitement, the work and activities of my mother and grandmother. Everything I saw and experienced around me left an indelible mark. I am very grateful to my mother for this opportunity.

My journey to titanium

As a young man, I learned to work with different metals. My mother helps me to clarify the first basic techniques of a goldsmith and I can help her in her home workshop. At some point in my life, I moved to the east coast of the United States. In America, New York offers me a lot of new opportunities. Whilst living there, I trained and educated myself at the local jeweller.
I learned new techniques for matching titanium with gold and other precious metals. I got to try different silver works and forgings, and I got to know precious metals and other materials better.
I have learned more about titanium under the guidance of an experienced goldsmith here in Estonia in his workshop. “Al” lived and worked as a jeweller in California for a long time. He has great talent and always has great ideas. Old school jeweller Karl Tomberg has also contributed to my work with his good thoughts. “Goldsmith Karla” has also been a great example to me.

Juveelitehas
Former jewelry factory building in Tallinn

My titanium

Titanium has always intrigued me! For its complex character and wonderful metallic-silver glow. There are several different grades of titanium (grade1- grade36). Bulletproof vests and space shuttle parts can fit in there. During the “USSR” the material moved from hand to hand and under the floor. Mainly, this material was used in military factories or as a rarity for lathes of the 《Vl》category. It was scarce and was a mystical metal for me. In Russian times, the material moved quietly under cover. Titanium was a very rare and secret commodity. The recent past is such that at the beginning of the 90s, most of the rare metals, Mendeleev’s table and even rarer earth metals were sold to the West at a profit several times higher. The young Estonia of the early 90s is like an import-export tunnel of metals. Route or transit corridor and intermediate warehouse all together. Let’s call it an epic, whatever. There is also a mysterious “red” mercury on the streets. The dark chunky jar contains a powdery reddish substance and is characterized by a huge specific gravity for its small volume. The jar is completely sealed on top, with a closed cap and logo – “радиоактивный”. The inscription on the jar – ”красная ртуть” Was it real or fake. Who knows anymore. This is the time when the so-called “watermelon trucks” driving on the roads of Estonia. Terms such as who do you work with, honorable mention, or throw over are common. Killings and murders are a daily phenomenon, and Estonia is at the forefront in this regard. US dollars, FIM or German marks are accepted. And a beautiful-looking tassel print with a fragrant Estonian crown. Any crisp currency will do as well, and certainly gold. There are buyers everywhere. Even in apartments, metals are stored. In short, watermelons on the market. Trucks with Russian numbers back to the expanses of Russia and to cobalt bases.
Cobalt was mainly in sheets. The leaves and pieces of the leftovers were hidden under loads of watermelon and inside rags so they wouldn’t move. It had to be re-stored quickly. Also the so-called non-ferrous metals copper, bronze, brass. Nickel, zinc, chrome, titanium, aluminum, stainless and cast iron in all sizes. There was also powdered magnesium and it is all for sale. In Estonia, “businessmen” who entered from Russia and bandits, who could sometimes have several kilos of gold hanging around their necks, raise their heads. Their goal and desire was to take over the local business and control the entire local market without choosing the means. The local boys, however, are not up to it. Times are difficult, the Russian ruble doesn’t work anymore, the Estonian kroon is still weak, and Estonian youth are like a Russian militia. Only in other colors. Corruption is rampant and everyone is taking advantage of it. “To become a millionaire with a cup of coffee” as Reps say. Metal has confused the minds of many. Money is measured in kilos and bags. Every day some kind of party or funeral is held. Somewhere, automatic machines vibrate and bombs explode. Metal really had its own price. And the words had to be held accountable or cast into tin. Many of the good guys in this metal war have long been resting in the dirt by now. The workers and schemers of the Dvigateli factory hide a large amount of titanium in the territory. With fear, a large hole was dug with buckets in the yard of the factory. Soil and old wire balls on top. After the collapse of the factory and the final collapse of the USSR, the material was excavated again. Titanium is also well preserved when buried or submerged. No corrosion. All in all, most rare metals have a beautiful bright glow and are precious. The hybrid titanium also has an extremely exotic look. Damasked titanium or Zirconium-Niobium doped titanium has made a huge leap in the last 10 years or so. There are multi-colored titanium alloys and there is titanium with crystals. NITINOL was also produced, which is also a hybrid and if sufficiently annealed, the bent shape returns to its original position. The materials are so exotic. This is a serious topic! Titanium is not just a metal. He is a kind of lifestyle. All this previous “metal business then” was a daily topic here in Estonia and in reality on the streets. Those were quite the 90s. Or in summary. This modern Estonia is diametrically different from the old-school Estonia. By now, everything is legalized and strictly controlled

In my work I use the old techniques of an old school goldsmith as well as sophisticated metal processing technologies with the help of modern machines.
Titanium is a unique material that also makes its wearer more unique. Hand engraved wedding rings are a truly beautiful and enjoyable craft for you for life.

Asymmetry is often encountered in the works – aesthetically clean line and top finish. I shift the work frames with playful ease and I like to feel and shift the boundaries.
I like the so-called all kinds of curved mirrors, mould-forging, anodizing and resisting all its whims. I have combined work and hobby for myself. My material and jewellery designed by me, has received recognition from the Estonian Allergy Association.

I make handmade wedding rings and jewellery for allergy sufferers as well. Everyone who is interested will definitely find something for themselves. If necessary, I can combine and match different precious metals and engrave your story on the rings.

All work and details receive special treatment and fine-tuning. Each project is a new challenge and needs its time. By listening to a person’s story and considering his/her ideas, thoughts and desires, the best art is born in collaboration. All works have been completed from hand to finish.
You can come to me to see the rings and even consult me in a wheelchair. My works are completed in a small studio in Tallinn.
Your idea – my realisation, in cooperation we will definitely find the best solution.
You are always Welcome!

PS! Dear customers and friends! There is a loss of up to -20% whenprocessing gold!

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